![]() Imperfections can be sanded, but the less sanding you have to do, the better. Use long, confident strokes, and smooth out your putty knife marks as you go. If you have smooth walls like I do, the finish coat will be joint compound, which is definitely not a plaster restoration product, OR Plaster of Paris, which can be.įor the finish coat, fill all the holes and cracks to bring the entire repaired section level with the smooth walls. If your plaster walls are textured, you might use the UGL plaster patch as your finish coat too. When the “scratch coat” is dry, apply a second coat almost even with the wall. For textured walls, you may press plaster patch into the holes you drilled too. ![]() Hopefully, my directions will suffice.įor smooth walls, apply the plaster patch to the missing sections only, pressing it through the lath just like an old-fashioned scratch coat. Some day I will get the hang of this blogging thing. I cannot believe I did not take photos to demonstrate the next part of this project. I use UGL (shown below), which is a glue-based product that does not shrink. Mix up some powdered plaster patch with water according to the package directions. When the adhesive is dry, remove the screws and caps. Wipe it off the wall with a rag before it dries. ![]() Squeeze a generous portion of construction adhesive into every hole that is not marked with an X.Īpply adhesive liberally all the way around the edges of any missing plaster chunks.Īfter you apply the adhesive, fasten screws and plaster caps through the crack and into the lath, tightening gently.Īdd screws and caps around the edges of the large, missing sections to draw the edges and adhesive firmly to the lath.Īs the caps tighten against the plaster and pull it back to the lath, some adhesive may ooze out. Let the glue mixture dry for a couple of hours. The glue mixture may pour out of the holes, so keep damp rags handy. This step can be messy, especially if you are working on a ceiling. The idea behind using the PVA water and glue mixture is that it will make the dust and debris behind the plaster congeal so that the adhesive will adhere with the most durable bond. If the plaster cracks are very minor, I often skip this step. Fill a syringe or spray bottle with the glue mixture, and squeeze or spray it into the holes. Mix a 50/50 ratio of PVA glue and water in a small container. If your drill bit goes between the lath, use a pencil to mark that hole with an X. The masonry bit will go through the plaster and bump up against the lath. Simply incorporate the new sections into the repair. You may lose more plaster during this process, but that is normal. Using a 3/16″ masonry bit, drill holes, every 2-3 inches, approximately 1″ away from the crack on both sides and all the way around any missing chunks of plaster. I often use a shop vac and a scraper for this task.
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